Graywolf blog

8/25/24: Sent an email to the machine shop but will call later 8/26/14: started to pull apart the intake manifold to clean it out, got a lot of stuff off but will probably end up just putting some of it together without cleaning it. the inside of the manifold was very oily on both sides of the turbo and I suspect the turbo was replaced very recently because it was clean. there is secondary throttle bodies of sorts right before the ports by the fuel injectors, I still am not sure of the purpose of these. 8/27/24: put intake manifold back together 8/28/24: went to machine shop and found out I need heads for the engine and if I got heads IM down over 1k for just the bare heads that require valve paraphernalia and machining to work, not to mention camshafts. the shop also could not do the crankshaft because it was too small. they did say $180 for a hone. after looking at my numbers I do not really like them, I would have to spend around 3k on fixing the engine and at that point I think I c...

8/23/24: Pulled off the oil pump and water pump but nothing of note 8/24/2024: I pulled the wrist pins out and took the pistons out there was extensive damage on all the piston skirts and there was a broken piece between two rings on one piston. once the pistons were out I took off all extra things on the block and removed all the bolts holding it together. I then split it apart and inspected the camshaft and rods. all but one of the rods were in good condition but the crankshaft and the crankshaft bearing were beat up and grooved. The one visibly bad rod had the bearing basically melted on and was very black from the heat. I plan to take the block to a machine shop and have them hone it and the heads, but I will ask how much it will cost to machine the crankshaft and camshafts, if it is over the amount I would pay for good used ones it is not worth it.

 8/20/24: proceeded to take off the intake manifold and most of the coolant lines and pcv lines and wiring with it. after pulling that off I went around to the exhaust and took off the heat shields at the block to access the manifold bolts, I removed the up-pipe and the entire manifold. then I began by taking off the cam pulleys which requires a large allen key and a large breaker bar. after I removed the pulleys I removed the plastic back timing cover and the valve cover. under the valve cover initially looked clean and the lobes were not damaged, it all turned worse after I took the journal off. there was groves on the cam and journals and there was a lot of them, you could feel them with your finger and you could probably file your fingernail on one if you tried. I moved past that for the time being and took the head off and found more bad news, the cylinder wall had piston slap marks and you can even feel them, I then quit for the night and came back the next day. 8/21/24: I to...

 8/19/24: I went to multiple hardware stores and they did not have the correct length so I ended up going with a 100mm instead of a 110mm and cut 10mm off of the engine stand, we mounted the engine to the stand without event. We drained the oil and it was very shiny but no visible large chunks or flakes. we also cut open the filter and it just had some shiny deposits like what was in the oil, It did not have any flakes either.  I took off the turbo and inspected it. The turbo seemed to have minimal wear ant there was still a paint mark on one of the compressor blades. Coolant was in the coolant return but the oil return for the turbo was completely dry except for some oil crust, I chalk this up to the turbo making the oil hot enough to flow completely back to the engine and therefore not remaining in the pipe. The brand of the turbo was F-Diesel, wo apparently is an online seller but more research is required. there is a ton of oil on top of the engine and the turbo looks like...

8/16/24: I removed he rest of the bolts connecting the engine to the transmission, I removed the ground straps from the engine as well. once those were removed I jacked up the engine and transmission enough to move around but the engine did not break free from the transmission. I was not able to remove the engine.  OF NOTE: there is 6 bolts between the engine and trans (1 is long, 5 normal, and 2 nuts), the long one on top is on the driver's side by in the starter, the rest are to be the same length. there is one bolt that requires the removal of the starter above, or the transmission cooler lines below to access it. To be able to take the engine out make sure you take out the bolts in the engine mounts under the car. the nuts on the bottom are really hard to get at and require a lot of open thinking to get the right position on them to get them out. 8/17/24: kept trying multiple thigs to remove the engine but had no luck. I tried chisels in the seam between the engine and the bell...

8/15/24: took off the downpipe, which was wedged in pretty good, I ended up having to remove more of the exhaust to get it off. I removed the tuque converter bolts, and started on the bolts securing the engine to the transmission and differential and the engine mounts. also removed the fuel lines and any wiring connectors and main harnesses I could see.  OF NOTE: the tuque converter bolts were relatively easy to get to but require a shorter socket and a breaker bar if the intake manifold is not removed, there was fluid on the back of the cover that was covering the access hole. I did not check, but I am fairly sure it was oil, possibly a leaking rear crank seal. there was a aftermarket connector for one of the o2 sensors after the cylinders. the exhaust seemed to have been taken apart before and some bolts were no tin all the way.  this video was helpful with removing the fuel lines 

8/14/24: pulled and pushed car into work bay with an atv, Got engine hoist and started disassembling the components required to remove the engine. I removed the battery, radiator, ac, alternator, intercooler and the bolts on the turbo's exhaust. I plan to be able to remove the engine tomorrow after I disconnect the wiring, downpipe, fuel, trans warmer, and any other vacuum lines.  OF NOTE. underside was very dry except for the timing cover below the cams on both sides, the front differential, and the transmission pan. head gasket and valve cover gasket both look very good with no signs of leakage. the oil on the diff and the trans is probably from a leak at the back of the engine or close to it. when draining the radiator there seemed to be come oil in the coolant and the coolant seemed new. there was a decent amount of oil in the intercooler but turbo compressor exit was very dry and clean.

P0340- camshaft position sensor “A” circuit P0700- transmission control system (MIL request) P0725- engine speed input circuit transmission related P0817- starter disable circuit transmission related P0021- "A" camshaft position - Timing over-advanced or performance could not find in engine section 1 and 2 and only in 3(h6) P0700- transmission control system (MIL request) reflecting on some of this some of it could have been caused by a low voltage battery, when I bought the car it had a pretty bad battery.